Saturday, November 29, 2008

Thanksgiving--Shishmaref Style

Most of the residents gather for the feast. We made many new friends.


Stew, anyone?


Reindeer stew, spiced just right--Delicious!!


Eskimo Ice Cream--Yum!!!


What a treat!


Beautiful ruffs--not just fashionable, but
a necessity to protect a person's face.


Mary (in red kuspuk) leads the dancing.


Eskimo dancing--each dance tells a story
to the drummers' beat.


Reindeer fawn mukluks made for Mary
by her grandmother when Mary was a
senior in high school.

Shishmaref drummers. Drums are traditionally made of thin caribou skin stretched over a frame. Some may have also been made from seal skin.



The school parking lot.

We celebrated Thanksgiving by attending the village feast. The main fare is reindeer stew. Early in the morning a sled of reindeer carcasses and several boxes of other ingredients were brought to the school kitchen. The unmarried men of the village spent the better part of the day butchering the reindeer and preparing the reindeer stew. Most of the village gathered in the Shishmaref High School gym about 5:30. A large plastic trash can had been filled with cherry KoolAid and everyone dipped out a cup or two. Each table was set with a roll of paper towel, 1/2 box of Pilot Bread, and a loaf of white bread. Families claimed their places by setting out their plates, bowls and spoons. Many also brought pots of stew. I brought a large pan of glazed sweet potatoes. A prayer was offered and serving began at a little after 6. The stew makers also did the serving.
After we had our fill of the stew, which was absolutely delicious, desserts were brought out. The women take great pride in their Eskimo ice cream. We sampled everything. One kind of Eskimo ice cream was made with caribou fat, seal oil, salmon berries and blueberries. Another kind was made with caribou fat mixed with dried and flaked lincod (yes, fish!!) and was very delicious. We also had a scoop of mixed berries (salmonberries, blueberries, cranberries, and crowberries) and a piece of cake made by one of the young girls. Tea accompanied the dessert.
After everyone had eaten their fill, the doxology was sung in Inupiaq and the clean-up began. High school kids do all the cleaning up. As soon as the gym was cleared, the Eskimo dancers and drummers took over and spent the next hour showing us a part of Inupiaq culture the early missionaries had tried, fortunately unsuccessfully, to eradicate. Many kids also came out to show what they had learned or were learning. The evenings entertainment continued until the wee hours of the morning with community basketball games. We felt privileged to experience a Thanksgiving with the Eskimos of Shishmaref, Alaska.

2 comments:

Debbie said...

Thanks for sharing ---- I will have to get out a map and see what part of Alaska you are in now. I noticed an older post about going back to Michigan. What part? Is that where your family is? I moved from near Traverse City Michigan 2 yrs ago to Arizona.

The Erms said...

Debbie,
Shishmaref is just north of the Bering Strait. Our permanent home is on the Keweenaw Peninsula of Michigan. We are originally from the UP where many members of our family still reside. The rest are scattered across the US.